The countess of Merlin, Cuban settled
in Paris and very well known then for her social gatherings
in the French Capital, wrote a book called ¨Travels
to Havana¨ (1840). She told how her opulent Creole
family put in their dinning table the most select of
the Spanish, French and English cuisine, although they
preferred the Cuban diet.
They gave the visitors all
the European luxury, but they habitually fed with the
typical menu of the country.Instead of the Westphalia jam or the roast beef, they
surrender to the ajiaco.
The ajiaco is the king of the
Cuban cuisine with typical presence in the national
kitchen. It’s a thick consommé, full of
viands and vegetables, and with the greasy, fragrant
and paradisiacal intervention of the pork meat. The
ajiaco, mixture of ingredients, is symbol and synthesis
of Cuba, its people and its culture.
There is another plate, rice and beans, that, although
they are eaten together, they are cooked separately.
The commensal mix them both, puts them together in a
plate that can be eaten at the beginning or at the end
of dinner even as only plate. For Cubans if there are
not rice and beans, there is not complete dinner. When
you cook them in the same pot, then you get a congrí,
which can be served with boiled yucca, seasoned with
lemon juice or sour orange and garlic and fried or roasted
pork ribs. This plate symbolizes the Cuban Creole food.
The pork meat is considered a divine food in Cuba and
it reaches all its magnitude grilled with carbon. The
rice and black beans can be also combined with the beef,
particularly the ground beef, and especially in its
most popular way, which is the Havana ground beef. In
this plate the beans are excluded. There is a song that
talks about the Cuban cuisine and it says: ¨Rice
with ground beef and yucca¨! Another combination
is the rice with fried chicken. In this plate the yucca
could be substituted with another viand: the sweet potato,
fried or boiled, or the malanga and the parboiled pumpkins.
The banana, green or ripen, is another important element
of the Cuban cuisine. When it is cooked green it is
cut in slices and fried. They are called mariquitas
or chicharritas. There is another way of cooking green
bananas, which is cut in gross slices and fried, then
punched with the hand and refried. They are called tostones,
chatinos or tachinos, depending of the region of the
country. The ripen bananas can be fried and they become
a sweet and delicate flavour.
With bananas it is possible to prepare many plates.
Another one is the fufú, which are green bananas
parboiled and transformed into puree, seasoned with
garlic and any other spices, and blended with pork cracklings.
This was a plate invented by the black slaves, but it
broke the chains and was incorporated into the Cuban
menu.
The Cuban cuisine had the same genesis that culture:
it has been integrated by contributions of Spain and
other regions. The poor table was conformed, partly,
by the Canaries. They left the chickpeas that the islanders
ate with corn, and Mojo, a very important dressing for
most of Cuban plates where the viands are included.
From Africa came the forced habit of the slaves of
eating corn flour, tender or dry, and in tamale. Even
the Chinese brought, more than 150 years ago, their
culinary ideas. That is why we also have the fried rice,
plate combined with multiple meats and vegetables.
In favour of the Cuban culinary art is necessary to
admit the creativity of the cookers. A traveller of
the XIX century, the North American Luisa Mathilde Woodruff,
wrote that she saw in Cuba already known plates, and
she found out, when she tasted them, that those plates
were different in a way. Due to that capacity the Cuban
cuisine stands out in the revenues that the country
receives from tourism.
A spirit of renovation and variety is perceived in
the Cuban recipes. The ability to combine traditional
plates with new tastes has propitiated the invention
of new plates.
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